Chapter IV COASTWISE ROUTES OF TRAVEL


WINTER is approaching, and numbers are undoubtedly looking
forward with pleasure to the period when they will leave
Old Boreas in the rear, and bask in the health-promoting
sunbeams of Florida; and as the present seems an opportune
time, I propose furnishing a few statements for the benefit
of those who contemplate a visit to this State.

As the southwest coast (the scene of my last winter's
wanderings) presents an attractive field for the true
sportsman, I shall refer to it in this communication. I
fancied that my articles published in the "Forest and
Stream" were sufficiently explanatory, but from the large
number of letters I have received, I find that something
more is necessary, and I shall endeavor to furnish the
required information.

Steamships leave Boston and Baltimore regularly for
Savannah. Florida can also be reached by any of the various
rail routes, and fares can be ascertained by inquiring at
any of the principal offices. Steamships leave New York for
Charleston three times weekly, and from Philadelphia every
Saturday, connecting with railroad, and with the stanch,
seaworthy, comfortable, and ably officered sea-going
steamers, the Dictator and City Point. Fare from New York
to Jacksonville, including state-room and meals, $27.50;
excursion ticket, $50.

Steamships leave New York for Savannah three times weekly,
connecting with the steamers Dictator, City Point, and
Lizzie Baker. If travellers prefer it, they can reach
Jacksonville from Savannah by the Atlantic and Gulf
railroad. Coupons of excursion tickets will be received by
the company. Travellers will find this road supplied with
excellent Pullman cars. Gelpcke's line from New York to
Fernandina consists of the well-known steamships Huntsville
and Montgomery. The rates by this line are as follows: New
York to Fernandina, $20, excursion ticket $35; New York to
Jacksonville, $22.50, excursion $40; New York to Cedar
Keys, $26, excursion $45; New York to Tampa and Manatee,
$36; New York to Punta Rassa, rate not received, but
presume about $40; New York to Key West, $46.

A direct line to Jacksonville is advertised, but we must
await results before anything definite can be stated. Fare
to Jacksonville as advertised, $20, excursion ticket $35.
Jacksonville or Fernandina reached, the sportsman can take
railroad, daily except Sunday, for Cedar Keys. If Homosassa
is the objective point, a boat can be hired at from eight
to ten dollars for the trip, or if disposed, the intending
tourist or sportsman can communicate with Alfred E. Jones
at Homosassa, and if timely notice is given, Mr. Jones
would meet his guests at Cedar Keys and land them at his
attractive home, free of charge. The only difficulty
attending this arrangement is the fact, that there is but
one mail per week to Homosassa, arriving on Mondays.
Homosassa can be reached by another route: Steamer from
Jacksonville to Silver Spring, a natural curiosity that
should be visited by every tourist. Hack from Silver Spring
to Ocala, fare one dollar. From Ocala to Homosassa, a
distance of thirty-six miles, over a good road, in
comfortable vehicle; charge for carriage from eight to
twelve dollars, dependent upon number of passengers. Board
at Homosassa, from ten to twelve dollars per week;
accommodations good, table excellent; fishing and shooting
superior; and we may add, rooms large and airy; verandas
spacious; fresh milk and butter; oysters and oranges ad
libitum.

Bronson, a point on the Fernandina and Cedar Keys railroad,
is thirty miles from Homosassa. The ponds in the
neighborhood afford fine bass fishing; quail and duck are
plenty, and the sportsman may succeed in shooting turkeys
or deer. Accommodations: hotels, fifteen dollars; private
boarding houses, twelve; board one dollar per day, or five
dollars per week. For information interview Mr. G. Levet.

With the exception of climate, bathing, and fishing, Cedar
Keys presents but few attractions for tourists or
sportsmen. We regret to state that the hotel accommodations
cannot be recommended as Al. Sportsmen arriving at Cedar
Keys and requiring information, need but call upon Mr.
Gore, editor of the local paper, or on Willard and Roux,
and mention that the liberty taken was in accordance with
the suggestion of "Al Fresco."

The steamer Valley City, commanded by that jolly sea-dog,
Captain McKay, leaves Cedar Keys every Friday for Tampa,
Manatee, Punta Rassa, and Key West. Parties desirous of
ascending the Caloosahatchie river, or of spending a few
weeks on the coast, could take steamer to Punta Rassa, and
from there ascend the river or explore Charlotte Harbor.
For 'gaitor shooting, ascend the Caloosahatchie to the
upper islands, six

37 miles above Fort Myers, and thirty-one from Punta Rassa.
Above the islands the disciple of Old Izaak can put in all
his spare time in landing cavalli ranging from five to
fifteen pounds. For fight and pluck we can recommend this
fish. They take the spoon or spinner without hesitation,
and we are of the opinion that they would not object to a
salmon fly. For hunting and sea fishing we can recommend
Tanibel, Lacosta, or Gasparilla islands. For a camping
place for the invalid who requires a bracing sea breeze, an
equable temperature, salt bathing, and life-giving
sunbeams, we would say camp on the northern end of
Gasparilla island. The island is two miles in length, and
is well stocked with deer. At the entrance, or Little
Gasparilla Pass, the fishing is unequalled. On the opposite
fiats beach birds are more than plentiful. The main land is
distant about three hundred yards. In the centre of the
island a lagoon with excellent water will be found; but by
digging a hole in the sand (and planting an empty barrel in
it) from twenty to eighty yards from the bay beach, fair
drinking water can be obtained at low tide. If a party
landed at Punta Rassa, a small sloop or schooner could be
chartered to transport boat, provisions, and camp equipage
to camping ground. A few weeks spent on one of the islands
in Charlotte Harbor would do much to restore the invalid.
Frosts are unknown; north-easters and north-westers lose
their injurious influences before reaching these favored
spots. A weekly mail is received at Punta Rassa, and
supplies could be obtained through Captain McKay, of the
Valley City. We have advised parties to camp on the end of
the island, for, by pursuing this course, bushes and grass
would be distant some hundred yards, and in consequence
mosquitoes would not prove troublesome. To intending
visitors I would say, secure coast survey charts of this
harbor, two in number, obtainable at any large nautical
store.

Returning northward, sportsmen could run the coast line
from Little Gasparilla Inlet to Sarasota Inlet, a distance
of thirty-eight miles. But unless they are familiar with
sailing, and know how to pick their way between bars, and
keep clear of breakers, we would advise them to take
themselves and boat on board the Valley City and land at
Tampa. At Tampa they would find good accommodations by
calling upon Lieutenant Wall. Leaving Tampa Bay, with its
islands stocked with deer, and every inlet furnishing
superior fishing, they would reach Clear Water Harbor by
the Indian Pass. From Clear Water Harbor they could run
along within two or three miles of the main land in from
three to five feet of water. A barrier reef exists from
five to seven miles from the main land, and owing to the
shallowness of the water, and the grassy nature of the
bottom, the water is smooth. Bayous, coves, and small bays
will be found in numbers along the coast line, and a good
harbor can always be made. The voyageurs could enter and
examine en route the attractive and beautiful springs at
the heads of the Wiccawatchee, Cheseowillski, Homosassa,.
and Crystal rivers. During the winter months the gulf is
usually as calm as a millpond, and can be safely navigated
with a seventeen-foot Whitehall boat; but for the purpose
of navigating shoal water and carrying plunder, we would
recommend a batteau, such as is used on the Delaware river.
If decked over and supplied with a centre-board and sail,
such a craft would be found admirably adapted to the
navigation of the south-west. Arrangements could be made
for the cheap transportation of such a boat from New York
to Cedar Keys by the New York and Fernandina line of
steamers. But if money is no object, I would recommend
intending sportsmen to secure a boat, with sailing master,
at Cedar Keys, Tampa, or Manatee, at an expense of from
four to five dollars per day. But I may remark that many of
the boatmen along the coast have acquired a weakness, and
if peace is desired the whiskey bottle must be kept under
lock and key. 

" AL FRESCO."