Chapter XXV FLORIDA TRAVEL


Florida Travel

THE St. Johns river is the great attraction for all tourists; but those who wish to examine a wild and weird stream, should take one of Colonel Hart's steamers from Pilatka and ascend the Ochlawha; and en route visit that great natural curiosity, Silver Spring. Owing to the character of the navigation, the boats present an unpretending exterior; but the accommodations and table can be recommended, more especially when we take into consideration the low price of passage. A large number of steamboats ply on the St. Johns river, and the tourist will find comfortable state-rooms and well supplied tables. But visitors to Florida must remember that the stewards of the boats cannot visit Fulton Market and buy in a stock of luxuries. When we take everything into consideration, we must congratulate the owners of steamboats in the State for the manner in which they cater for their passengers. Jacksonville, the great objective point, is well supplied with hotels, and innumerable private boarding houses. At Magnolia, Hibernia, Green Cove Spring, Pilatka, Mellonville, and Enterprise, excellent hotels will be found. For the information of intending tourists and sportsmen we will furnish rates to all important landings on the St. Johns river. Fare to all landings between Jacksonville and Green Cove Spring................................ $1 00 Fare to all landings above Green Cove Spring to Pilatka 2 00 Meals Extra. Jacksonville to San Mateo.............................. 4 00 " Welaka................................. 5 00 " Lake George Landing.................... 6 00 " Volusea................................ 7 00 " Blue Spring............................ 8 00 " Enterprise and Mellonville............. 9 00 " Lake Harris............................12 00 " Salt Lake..............................14 00 State-room and meals included in fare to all points beyond Pilatka. Charge for row boats to Enterprise.................. $3 to 6 " " Salt Lake.......................... 8 From Salt Lake, passengers can secure transportation to Indian river for about $5. Freight one-half cent per pound. A small steamer has been placed on Indian river, but as yet nothing definite has been determined regarding fare or time of departure. So much has already been written about Indian river as an attractive point for sportsmen that I shall refrain from adding my mite. New Smyrna, on the Halifax river, can be reached from Enterprise, but as Colonel Alden has so thoroughly written up the locality in the columns of the public press, we shall refrain from commenting upon its climate, bathing, and piscatorial attractions. But we are compelled to state that sportsmen will find the Colonel approachable, and ever ready to furnish information regarding his section. St. Augustine can be reached from Tocoi by railroad. The road is fourteen miles in length and the charge for passage $2.50. The price may seem exorbitant, but travellers must remember that travel is limited, and that the road must earn sufficient in three months to run it for twelve. Excellent hotel accommodations will be found in St. Augustine, and in addition, the tourist can choose between a number of private boarding houses. If any adventurous sporting reader wishes to indulge in an agreeable and romantic trip, we would advise him to obtain a light flat-bottomed boat, eighteen to twenty feet long, five feet beam, with centre-board and sprit sail. Forward it to Jacksonville by sailing vessel or steamer; from Jacksonville to Mellonville by steamboat. Transport boat from Mellonville to Lake Hoptaliga by wagon, a distance of about thirty-five miles, at an expense of $25. From the lake descend the Kissimmee river to Lake Okeechobee, a distance of about one hundred and sixty miles. The river is bounded by extensive prairies, and the hunter can indulge in deer shooting to his satisfaction. Ducks and 'gators exist in immense quantities, and bass (trout) fishing will be found to be excellent. Owing to the prevalence of easterly winds, the open nature of the country and the rapid current, Okeechobee can be reached in three days from Hoptaliga. From the mouth of the Kissimmee to the mouth of Fish Eating creek is a distance of about thirty miles. But to find the entrance to the latter stream is the rub. Three parties have descended the Kissimmee, and searched for the mouth of the creek, but failed to find it. I propose entering it before next spring, from the lake, and if I succeed, I will erect a pole at its mouth, surmounted with a tin can. The best directions I can furnish to parties desirous of entering the creek are as follows: From the mouth of the Kissimmee river to Fish Eating creek the course of the lake shore is south-west by west, about thirty miles; and from the mouth of the creek the trend of the shore is south-south-east. The bearings of the lake shore will guide the wanderer in finding the entrance of the creek. North of the creek less than one mile, a very large cypress will be noticed in the lake, about six hundred feet from the shore. Owing to the prevalence of easterly winds, the mouth of the creek will probably be found obstructed by floating lettuce, but the channel can be discovered by keeping near the shore and sounding with a pole. To escape the difficulties attending the navigation of the creek (for two and a half miles, beginning at the lake), in consequence of the presence of lettuce, we would advise parties to take to the marsh opposite the large cypress, and pursue southwest by west course, which will land them in the creek above the obstruction; in an ordinary state of water a boat can be pushed through the saw-grass and lily-pads. Proceeding up the creek about five miles, an immense mound will be noticed on the left bank. This has not been opened to any extent, and if archeologically inclined the tourist may amuse himself. Six miles above the mound a ford will be discovered, and this point is named New Fort Centre. By proceeding a few miles above the crossing, the sportsman could camp on the banks of the creek under the protecting branches of some huge liveoak, and indulge in the best deer and turkey shooting in the United States. The creek is noted for its numbers , of large trout (bass). The question of how to reach the Caloosahatchie will be asked. The pedestrian of the party must provide himself with a bottle of water, and some provisions, and take the old military road at the ford and follow it for twelve miles in a south-west direction, when Mr. Carlton's residence will be discovered. I arranged with Mr. Carlton to transport boat and traps for any party from the creek to Fort Thompson, at the head of navigation, on the Caloosahatchie. The price agreed upon with Mr. Carlton, for self, wagon, and team, was $3 per day. Going to and returning from the creek would require two days, and entail an expense of $6. I engaged Mr. Carlton to carry me to Fish Eating creek, and formed a very favorable opinion of him. At the rapids, large trout, and cavalli, weighing three to four pounds, can be captured. As a general rule, a number of Indians will be found in camp at the fort, and superior buckskins can be purchased from them for $1 per skin. The descent of the Caloosahatchie a distance of about 110 miles will be found to be an enjoyable trip. When Punta Rassa is reached, the wanderer may do up Charlotte Harbor, or take the steamer Valley City on Tuesday and reach Cedar Keys on Thursday. The trip from Jacksonville, and return via Punta Rassa and Cedar Keys, a distance of about 1,000 miles could be made in a limited period and at a trifling expense. We are under the impression that we could do it up in the time indicated below: 2 days to Mellonville; 2 days to Hoptaliga; 4 days to Okeechobee; 2 days to Fish Eating creek; 1 day to Fort Centre; 3 days to be occupied in transporting boat to Fort Thompson; 4 days from Fort T. to Punta Rassa; 2 days from Punta Rass: to Cedar Keys; 1 day from Cedar Keys to Jacksonville; or twenty-one days for the round trip. I may remark that boats can be purchased in Jacksonville; but, as they are generally built of yellow pine, they are heavy and apt to leak. Before leaving Jacksonville, or Mellonville, a party should provide themselves with a pushing pole sixteen feet long. It seems strange that Florida is almost the oldest settled portion of the United States, and up to the present time no person has left the Atlantic coast and reached the Gulf through the medium of a boat, via St. Johns, Kissimmee, Okeechobee, and Caloosahatchie, and for the obvious reason that no one has been able to find the mouth of Fish Eating creek. If I can find the right kind of a companion, I will make the attempt in December or January. I have recently received one of Bond's sectional boats, sixteen feet long, and propose testing its applicability for the trip. South- west Florida is a sportsman's paradise, and truly worth visiting. Frosts are unknown, rain seldom falls during the winter months, the days are not uncomfortably warm, and the health is unexceptionable. " AL FRESCO."