Chapter IV COASTWISE ROUTES OF TRAVEL



WINTER is approaching, and numbers are undoubtedly looking

forward with pleasure to the period when they will leave

Old Boreas in the rear, and bask in the health-promoting

sunbeams of Florida; and as the present seems an opportune

time, I propose furnishing a few statements for the benefit

of those who contemplate a visit to this State.



As the southwest coast (the scene of my last winter's

wanderings) presents an attractive field for the true

sportsman, I shall refer to it in this communication. I

fancied that my articles published in the "Forest and

Stream" were sufficiently explanatory, but from the large

number of letters I have received, I find that something

more is necessary, and I shall endeavor to furnish the

required information.



Steamships leave Boston and Baltimore regularly for

Savannah. Florida can also be reached by any of the various

rail routes, and fares can be ascertained by inquiring at

any of the principal offices. Steamships leave New York for

Charleston three times weekly, and from Philadelphia every

Saturday, connecting with railroad, and with the stanch,

seaworthy, comfortable, and ably officered sea-going

steamers, the Dictator and City Point. Fare from New York

to Jacksonville, including state-room and meals, $27.50;

excursion ticket, $50.



Steamships leave New York for Savannah three times weekly,

connecting with the steamers Dictator, City Point, and

Lizzie Baker. If travellers prefer it, they can reach

Jacksonville from Savannah by the Atlantic and Gulf

railroad. Coupons of excursion tickets will be received by

the company. Travellers will find this road supplied with

excellent Pullman cars. Gelpcke's line from New York to

Fernandina consists of the well-known steamships Huntsville

and Montgomery. The rates by this line are as follows: New

York to Fernandina, $20, excursion ticket $35; New York to

Jacksonville, $22.50, excursion $40; New York to Cedar

Keys, $26, excursion $45; New York to Tampa and Manatee,

$36; New York to Punta Rassa, rate not received, but

presume about $40; New York to Key West, $46.



A direct line to Jacksonville is advertised, but we must

await results before anything definite can be stated. Fare

to Jacksonville as advertised, $20, excursion ticket $35.

Jacksonville or Fernandina reached, the sportsman can take

railroad, daily except Sunday, for Cedar Keys. If Homosassa

is the objective point, a boat can be hired at from eight

to ten dollars for the trip, or if disposed, the intending

tourist or sportsman can communicate with Alfred E. Jones

at Homosassa, and if timely notice is given, Mr. Jones

would meet his guests at Cedar Keys and land them at his

attractive home, free of charge. The only difficulty

attending this arrangement is the fact, that there is but

one mail per week to Homosassa, arriving on Mondays.

Homosassa can be reached by another route: Steamer from

Jacksonville to Silver Spring, a natural curiosity that

should be visited by every tourist. Hack from Silver Spring

to Ocala, fare one dollar. From Ocala to Homosassa, a

distance of thirty-six miles, over a good road, in

comfortable vehicle; charge for carriage from eight to

twelve dollars, dependent upon number of passengers. Board

at Homosassa, from ten to twelve dollars per week;

accommodations good, table excellent; fishing and shooting

superior; and we may add, rooms large and airy; verandas

spacious; fresh milk and butter; oysters and oranges ad

libitum.



Bronson, a point on the Fernandina and Cedar Keys railroad,

is thirty miles from Homosassa. The ponds in the

neighborhood afford fine bass fishing; quail and duck are

plenty, and the sportsman may succeed in shooting turkeys

or deer. Accommodations: hotels, fifteen dollars; private

boarding houses, twelve; board one dollar per day, or five

dollars per week. For information interview Mr. G. Levet.



With the exception of climate, bathing, and fishing, Cedar

Keys presents but few attractions for tourists or

sportsmen. We regret to state that the hotel accommodations

cannot be recommended as Al. Sportsmen arriving at Cedar

Keys and requiring information, need but call upon Mr.

Gore, editor of the local paper, or on Willard and Roux,

and mention that the liberty taken was in accordance with

the suggestion of "Al Fresco."



The steamer Valley City, commanded by that jolly sea-dog,

Captain McKay, leaves Cedar Keys every Friday for Tampa,

Manatee, Punta Rassa, and Key West. Parties desirous of

ascending the Caloosahatchie river, or of spending a few

weeks on the coast, could take steamer to Punta Rassa, and

from there ascend the river or explore Charlotte Harbor.

For 'gaitor shooting, ascend the Caloosahatchie to the

upper islands, six



37 miles above Fort Myers, and thirty-one from Punta Rassa.

Above the islands the disciple of Old Izaak can put in all

his spare time in landing cavalli ranging from five to

fifteen pounds. For fight and pluck we can recommend this

fish. They take the spoon or spinner without hesitation,

and we are of the opinion that they would not object to a

salmon fly. For hunting and sea fishing we can recommend

Tanibel, Lacosta, or Gasparilla islands. For a camping

place for the invalid who requires a bracing sea breeze, an

equable temperature, salt bathing, and life-giving

sunbeams, we would say camp on the northern end of

Gasparilla island. The island is two miles in length, and

is well stocked with deer. At the entrance, or Little

Gasparilla Pass, the fishing is unequalled. On the opposite

fiats beach birds are more than plentiful. The main land is

distant about three hundred yards. In the centre of the

island a lagoon with excellent water will be found; but by

digging a hole in the sand (and planting an empty barrel in

it) from twenty to eighty yards from the bay beach, fair

drinking water can be obtained at low tide. If a party

landed at Punta Rassa, a small sloop or schooner could be

chartered to transport boat, provisions, and camp equipage

to camping ground. A few weeks spent on one of the islands

in Charlotte Harbor would do much to restore the invalid.

Frosts are unknown; north-easters and north-westers lose

their injurious influences before reaching these favored

spots. A weekly mail is received at Punta Rassa, and

supplies could be obtained through Captain McKay, of the

Valley City. We have advised parties to camp on the end of

the island, for, by pursuing this course, bushes and grass

would be distant some hundred yards, and in consequence

mosquitoes would not prove troublesome. To intending

visitors I would say, secure coast survey charts of this

harbor, two in number, obtainable at any large nautical

store.



Returning northward, sportsmen could run the coast line

from Little Gasparilla Inlet to Sarasota Inlet, a distance

of thirty-eight miles. But unless they are familiar with

sailing, and know how to pick their way between bars, and

keep clear of breakers, we would advise them to take

themselves and boat on board the Valley City and land at

Tampa. At Tampa they would find good accommodations by

calling upon Lieutenant Wall. Leaving Tampa Bay, with its

islands stocked with deer, and every inlet furnishing

superior fishing, they would reach Clear Water Harbor by

the Indian Pass. From Clear Water Harbor they could run

along within two or three miles of the main land in from

three to five feet of water. A barrier reef exists from

five to seven miles from the main land, and owing to the

shallowness of the water, and the grassy nature of the

bottom, the water is smooth. Bayous, coves, and small bays

will be found in numbers along the coast line, and a good

harbor can always be made. The voyageurs could enter and

examine en route the attractive and beautiful springs at

the heads of the Wiccawatchee, Cheseowillski, Homosassa,.

and Crystal rivers. During the winter months the gulf is

usually as calm as a millpond, and can be safely navigated

with a seventeen-foot Whitehall boat; but for the purpose

of navigating shoal water and carrying plunder, we would

recommend a batteau, such as is used on the Delaware river.

If decked over and supplied with a centre-board and sail,

such a craft would be found admirably adapted to the

navigation of the south-west. Arrangements could be made

for the cheap transportation of such a boat from New York

to Cedar Keys by the New York and Fernandina line of

steamers. But if money is no object, I would recommend

intending sportsmen to secure a boat, with sailing master,

at Cedar Keys, Tampa, or Manatee, at an expense of from

four to five dollars per day. But I may remark that many of

the boatmen along the coast have acquired a weakness, and

if peace is desired the whiskey bottle must be kept under

lock and key. 



" AL FRESCO."