The 24 hours that I spent in Talladega, Alabama from April 15 to April 16, 2000 was such a bizarre experience that I felt compelled to document the day on this web page. You can view a map that corresponds to this narrative by clicking here. The map will open in a new window where you can click back and forth to follow my tribulations. Although I was technically in the central time zone, all times will be reported as EST (eastern). The entire trip actually lasted for about 35 hours, but the 5 1/2 hour drive up there, and the 5 1/2 hour drive home were thankfully uneventful.
Gentlemen, Start Your Engines
The plans for an overnight
outing to see my first ever NASCAR race originated last Tuesday night in
Jackson, Mississippi. While visiting my mom, I went out with Steve,
an old friend from high school. He and some college fraternity brothers
make the trip to Talladega twice a year (in April & October) for camping,
tailgating, and racing. It happened that one of the regulars was
unable to attend this time, thus making a ticket available.
Since I have always wanted
to go to a NASCAR race, I eagerly accepted the offer assuming that Kim
and I could find a baby sitter for Sunday while she worked. After
I returned to Tallahassee on Wednesday, Kim gave me "permission" to go
to the race as her parents were passing through town on Sunday on their
way to Colorado and would be able to babysit Olivia. I called Steve
and confirmed that I would be there sometime on Saturday afternoon.
He was leaving for Talladega on Thursday, and told me that he would call
Friday night and give me directions to their camp.
Friday night came, and
he called me from the campground. The call came later than expected
as the cellular phone lines were tied up in the Talladega area. If
I would have known the trouble that this would cause the next day, I would
have taken more specific directions, or formulated a plan "C".
But plan "C" was never
made. Plan "A" was for me to call his cellular phone upon my arrival
at the campground from a set of phones located near the track (map
insert P). He would simply meet me at
the phones after my call. Plan "B", which was the contingency plan
in the unlikely case that plan "A" failed, was to find the campsite using
the landmarks that he described. I jotted down the directions to
the phones, and the general directions to the campgrounds not expecting
any problems trying to meet the group.
I left Tallahassee at noon
on Saturday. I knew that a Busch race (preliminary race) was to start
at 2:30, and wanted to get in the camp before the race let out. It
seemed like a great decision, and looked to have the anticipated outcome,
as I pulled into the racetrack parking lot with about 20 laps remaining
in the race (I was listening on the radio). I turned into campground road
(map
insert) and found no traffic as I pulled as
close as possible to the racetrack. As a few fans had left early,
I found a great parking place only a few hundred yards from the track (map
insert 1). I listened to the end of
the race on the radio thinking that I would call Steve from the track as
the crowd was letting out. He could easily meet me at the phone inside
the stadium.
Miscommunication in Turn 1
The race ended, and I fought
against the wave of exiting people to get into the grandstand area.
I didn't expect to see that the Busch race also drew a sellout crowd.
I got inside, and noticed that the phones nearest to my entry were occupied.
I bought a sausage dog and coke from a nearby vendor (delicious, but cost
me 10 bucks), and waited for the phone. I can safely assume that
the people that I waited behind weren't calling their stockbroker, and
their conversation wasn't as urgent as my call, but I waited patiently.
Finally, they finished and I confidently dialed Steve's cell phone using
a calling card that I got from Kim for Christmas.
After dialing the 98 digits
required to place a call using a calling card, I got this message:
"Thank you for using blah blah blah, please enter the number of the party
you wish to dial." I wish I had 3 minutes on my calling card for
every time I heard that message on Saturday. It didn't dawn on me
until later that this message translated into, "All cellular phone lines
in this area are busy. Please don't bother to try again."
As more people were waiting
for the phone, I decided to try again after a few minutes. I walked
along the grandstand, and took a peek at the track. It took about
15 minutes before I was able to call again. All of the 15-20 phones
up and down the 1 mile long grandstand were occupied by folks drinking
Busch-in-a-can, and calling their stockbrokers. I finally got to
a phone, and re-tried the number with the same outcome.
By this time, I thought,
Steve had made his way back to the campsite and was waiting for my call,
completely unaware that I couldn't get through. I could search for
the phones that he described, or begin my search for the campsite.
I did neither. Since I didn't know the reason why I couldn't get
through to his cell phone, I stayed at the track, and kept trying the number.
He had also given me his beeper number (man, it seemed like we had all
bases covered). I tried to leave a numeric message on the beeper
hoping that he would call me since he evidently had his phone turned off,
or had given me the wrong number. But, he never called. I called
his wife, Stacey, and confirmed that I had the correct cell and beeper
numbers. I did. I called Kim to see if he had called her.
He hadn't. I left the pay phone number with each of them in case
he called in the next fifteen minutes or so. I waited. After
a half hour of waiting, and a few more attempts at his cell phone, I decided
to drive down to try to find the phones that he described the previous
night. I got to my car, and quickly dismissed that plan, as the throng
of traffic on campsite road was moving at a pace of about 5 feet per hour.
I walked back to the track, and waited by the phone, and let the traffic
die down.
Finally, at about 7:30
when all efforts from the track were exhausted, I decided to buck the still
slowly moving traffic, and try to find the campsite using the directions
that he gave me. I had written down essentially: going east
on speedway blvd., turn right on Campground Road, then make your first
left, and look for a set of phones. From where I was parked (map
insert 1), I would need to go back towards
Speedway Blvd. to find this spot. Unfortunately, the traffic officer
wouldn't let me take a right on Campsite Road from the parking lot ...
I had to go left. I reluctantly followed the traffic out of the campground,
and onto State Road 326, then onto State Road 377, and eventually out to
Highway 77 where I was about 3 hours prior (in a much better mood).
I had no choice but to
retrace my steps from earlier, going north on 77 with the intention of
turning right (east) on Speedway Blvd., then back to Campground Road.
But, to my heightening dissatisfaction, a traffic officer was preventing
any traffic from entering Speedway Blvd from the west. I continued
north, and stopped at a Texaco station at I-20 (map
T). I tried to call Steve's cell phone
from the gas station, but achieved the same results. It was on top
of the pay phone at this gas station that I later surmised I had left my
calling card. Some lucky Busch-in-a-can drinking, stockbroker calling,
not lost, SOB hit the jackpot as I had about 130 minutes left on the card.
Not knowing that I left
the card on the phone, I got back in the car and headed south on 77 to
see if traffic had cleared enough to allow travel east on Speedway Blvd.
Not a chance. I slowed by the traffic officer and asked how long
before the road would open.
"Bout two hours" was his
answer.
"How can I get to the campgrounds?"
I asked.
"Go down to the co-op,
and turned left."
I groaned. I didn't
know what or where the co-op was, but I had a sinking feeling that it was
located at the intersection of 377 and 77. I travelled the 10 or
so miles back down to 377, shot a finger at the co-op, and continued back
to Campsite Road. At about 9 o'clock, I reached the spot where I
had parked earlier, no closer to meeting my group than I was 4 hours ago.
It was dark, and the traffic on Campsite Road had picked up to a sizzling
6 feet per hour. I parked in basically the same spot as before (map
insert 2), with the intention of searching
for the campsite.
"Make a right on Campground
Rd, then take your first left ... look for a set of phones." The directions
said.
It should be noted that
Campground Road and Campsite Road are names invented by me while writing
this narrative. I had no idea of the layout of the campground at
the time. I assumed that the first left was way back near Speedway
Blvd. (it turned out to be Campsite Rd ... where I was). I got out
of the car, and started to walk towards Speedway Blvd. I reached
a set of phones
(map insert P),
and tried to call Steve (these phones accepted only cash and credit cards,
so I didn't realize then that I had lost my calling card). I had
no idea that I was calling him from the phones that he described in the
directions (I assumed that there was another set of phones somewhere near
the 1st left). I got the same message from the automated phone lady
whom I now hated. Noticing that the traffic was moving at a
whopping 7 feet per hour, I decided to forego the 2 mile walk to Speedway
Blvd, and attempt to drive the distance.
After getting back in the
car, and sitting in traffic for about an hour (Ok, I admit, I moved more
than 7 feet ... it was closer to 100), I decided to park again (map
insert 3), and walk the remaining distance.
I called once more from the infamous set of phones, and with the same results,
began my trek. The decision to walk was a good one as I was walking
about 10 times faster than those who drove (at this point most of the traffic
consisted of campground dwellers who were just "cruising"). I walked
all the way to Speedway Blvd, and retraced back to the "1st left".
It wasn't much of a road ... basically a path between campers and tents.
The "road" quickly ended at some woods, and I knew that I was in the wrong
spot. I glanced down Speedway Blvd.
"I must have taken the
wrong turn off of Speedway," I thought, reversing my pedestrian direction
and heading back to my car. "I'll have to drive back here, take a
right back towards the track, and find the correct off -road."
Of course, these weren't
my exact thoughts ... my exact thoughts were: "&*%$#, I must
have taken the wrong $%&^% turn of the &*(%$ speedway ... I'll
have to walk all the %$#*& way back to my $%^#& car, and drive
all the &%*$ way back here, then try to find the &*&%$ correct
off &%^#* road."
Luckily, by the time I
reached my car it was after 11:00, and the traffic was moving much faster.
I reached Speedway Blvd (2 miles) at about midnight. I turned right
to look for the "correct off-road", but the only turn was the main entrance
to the Speedway and Racing Hall of Fame. I continued to a convenience
store (map C)
down the road to try to call Steve once more. At this convenience
store, I learned what would happen if the world ran out of all commodities
except beer, ice, and cigarettes, and it was announced that beer, ice,
and cigarettes would only be available for another 30 minutes at only one
convenience store. I also learned the destination of everyone in
the traffic jam.
I parked, and located the
phone. It was at this moment when I noticed that I no longer possessed
my calling card. I searched frantically though my car, wallet,
and pockets to no avail. Since this store didn't sell calling cards
(apparantly only beer, ice, and cigarettes), I was forced to scrounge through
my pockets for enough change to place another futile call.
My options at this point
were: a) continue to call using change that I would have to buy,
b) try to find the campsite, c) go back to the Texaco, and try to find
my card or buy another one, or d) go back to Tallahassee. I considered
"d" for a minute, but it was after midnight, and besides ... I really wanted
to go to this race. "B" was out of the question, as I was convinced
that I had bogus directions. I wanted to get out of the madhouse,
so I dismissed "a". I decided on "c" as I knew that I would eventually
need a calling card anyway.
Blown Tire in Turn 2
I pulled out of the store,
and went west on Speedway Blvd towards the Texaco station. As I passed
Campground Road, I slowed and peered down the road, hoping that Steve and
his group might see and wave at me ... or light a flare or something.
Only thing I saw was the steady stream of traffic continuing to pour onto
Speedway Blvd. I drove on. After a couple of miles, my steering
wheel started to pull heavily to the right. I slowed down, and pulled
to the side. It straightened out as I slowed down, so I continued.
Immediately after rejoining the traffic on the road, the wheel jerked to
the right, and I heard rubber flapping on the road. Flat tire.
Rats! ($%#@!).
There was a substantial
shoulder on the road, so I stopped the car (map
FT) and began the process of changing the
tire. I emptied my sleeping bags, overnight bag, and cooler of beer
from the back of the car to see where the spare tire was located.
It wasn't anywhere obvious. I found the jack, and looked in the manual
for the location of the spare. It was supposed to be inside the hatch
of the Jeep Cherokee. I realized at that moment that I never really
saw a spare tire on the car when we bought it in 1997. Since the
tires were new when we bought the car, and we had never had reason to use
the spare, this omission went unnoticed ... until now.
I remembered, however,
that thanks to a birthday gift from my in-laws, I was a card carrying member
of the AAA auto club. The only problem was getting to a phone to
call them. I knew that I was two miles from a pay phone in either
direction.
Across the street and down
a couple of hundred yards, I saw a truck with a fire lit beside it (map
F). Out of necessity, I got up the nerve
to venture up to the stranger, and ask for his assistance. It was
a local man who was selling firewood out of his truck. Business was
evidently good on the chilly night as he was packing up his emptied truck
to leave.
Not to be presumptuous,
I told him that I had a flat tire, and asked him where the nearest telephone
was.
"Local call?" he
asked.
"Toll-free." I answered.
He handed me his cell phone.
I dialed the number for
AAA, and with the firewood salesman's help, I described my exact location
to the representative. The fact that she requested a phone number
where she could reach me in case of any problems bothered me because I
knew that I would soon be out of touch, and relying on a tow truck driver
from who-knows-where to find me.
Just as I hung up the phone,
the man's wife pulled up. The three of us had a nice time chatting
about such issues as the crowd in town for the race, experiences with car
break-downs, the firewood business, and directions to the campsite.
In fact, based on my directions (which I had memorized by that time), they
felt confident that they could find the campsite. They gave me several
new landmarks to look for when I returned.
It was getting late, and
his wife reminded him that it was time for them to go. Noticing that
I was in short pants, he offered to keep the fire going for my warmth.
I had planned on returning to the safety of my car when they left, but
I decided not to refuse the nice gesture. He retrieved a large antifreeze-sized
jug of motor oil from the back of his truck and began squirting fuel on
the fire. As he was doing this, the flames somehow backlashed up
the stream of oil, and threatened to engulf the whole jug. To prevent
this, he quickly jerked the jug back and to his right away from the fire.
Unfortunately, this is precisely where I was standing. The oil completely
drenched me below my waist, ruining my shorts and socks. He began
to apologize profusely, but I couldn't do anything but laugh. We
talked for several more minutes about my fate on this day, and they left
apologizing some more and offering to pay for my clothes. I told
him that we were even, considering his help.
I ventured back across
the street to my car, changed into the blue jeans that I brought, and waited
another half hour or so before the tow truck arrived a few minutes after
1 a.m. The tow truck driver turned out to be very friendly and helpful,
but my first impression was that he was very reluctant to help me at all.
Apparently, he was awoken by the AAA person, and had basically a standing
vow to stay completely away from the racetrack area on this particular
weekend. The representative informed him that I was on a major road,
and in dire need, so he agreed to make one pass to see if he could find
me.
The first thing he told
me was that he knew of no place in the area that would be able to fix the
tire at this late hour. I figured as much, and asked him to just
take me and the car to the Texaco station (map
T) where I would try to contact my friend.
As he loaded the car on the truck, I think he began to realize that I wasn't
just a typical drunk race fan trying to cause trouble in his hometown,
and with this, he became much more amicable. Either that, or the
crankiness due to being woken in the middle of the night was wearing off.
He suggested that he could take me to a truck stop (map
TS) on exit 165 where they had a tire shop.
On the way to the truck
stop, he told me of several experiences he had with the race crowd over
the years. I understood why our relations started uncomfortably.
He also told me that the traffic today would be like a Sunday drive compared
to the traffic after tomorrow's race. This was disturbing news knowing
that I had a five and a half hour drive after the conclusion of the race
(if I even went to the race at all).
We reached the truck stop,
and the clerk said that the tire shop wouldn't open until 7 a.m., but she
could have an emergency call placed ... which would cost 50 bucks plus
normal charges. I told her that I would consider it, but I needed
to make a call first. This store did sell phone cards, and I was
able to purchase one from a machine and call Steve from the adjoining diner.
My first impression of the diner was that it wouldn't necessarily be a
bad place to spend the night. They had a television, phones, plenty
of empty booths, coffee, and food. I dialed the number using my new
phone card, and got through!
I briefly told Steve what
happened, and that I was at a truck stop deciding what to do about my flat
tire. Just as I was about to give him directions to pick me up, the
phone disconnected. I quickly tried to redial the number, but couldn't
get through. Just then, my new tow truck driving friend came in the
diner and said he knew someone who would fix my tire tonight.
A garage nearby named Dillard and Son's (I was happy that I wasn't traveling
with Peter Warrick and Laverneous Coles) could look at the tire.
I left word with the clerk that if someone called for me to let them know
I was getting my tire fixed, and would call him later.
The tow truck driver
and I loaded up and drove to the garage which was located exactly in the
middle of freaking nowhere (map G).
If I hadn't become such close friends with the tow truck driver, I would
have sworn he had kidnapped me, and was taking me to the filming of Deliverance
II. We thankfully reached the garage which was surrounded by an auto
junk yard.
The owner and his son (both
Dillards, I assume), and a couple of other employees were very busy.
The race weekend is evidently a boost to the local economy in more ways
than just beer, ice, and cigarette sales. I was just thankful that
the garage was still open for business at 1:30 in the morning. The
senior Dillard took one look at the tire, and pointed out a slash that
was probably too long to be repaired in the conventional manner.
He did try with a plug with no luck.
He thought about it for
a while, talked with Dillard junior, looked at the size of my tire, and
offered to sell me one of the tires off his truck! Even though I
had no real alternative, I politely refused to accept the tire from his
personal truck. He told me not to worry that he could retrieve another
from the lot in the morning. I accepted his offer, and he proceeded
to remove the tire from the rim on his truck, and put it on mine.
While this was going on,
the tow truck driver, knowing his work was done, gave me his bill which
with AAA discounts only came to 35 dollars. I gladly gave him the
cash, explaining that I wish I could include a tip, but I didn't know how
much the tire would run me, and I was running short of cash. He understood,
and was on his way. I never realized the burden of the AAA drivers
when they are called in the middle of the night, but I hope they are compensated
well, and I am deeply appreciative of his help.
As Dillard senior was still
busy with my tire, I asked junior if he had a phone that I could use.
He led me to his office where I was able to contact Steve for the second
time. Steve, who was sleeping the first time I called, had woken
his friend, Jay, and proceeded to search for me and a diner east of town.
I could have sworn I said west, but I was so shocked that I finally got
through on the line the first time, that I might have told him wrong.
When I called the second time from the garage, he was at a gas station
east of town asking where their diner was, and probably receiving puzzled
looks from the clerk.
To avoid small talk in
case of another disconnection, we quickly agreed to meet at the Texaco
station (map T).
I told him that I should be there in 30 minutes or less. I got off
the phone just as Dillard senior was putting my rim with the new tire on
my car. I considered asking him how much he was going to charge me
before he put it on, but I felt there must be some unspoken code where
a stranded, desperate, traveler must accept whatever charges that a local
mechanic hits you with. I didn't mention costs, and tried to be as
friendly as I could, hoping that there was a more powerful code between
southern gentlemen where you don't mind doing a good deed for one another.
Dillard was a very friendly,
soft spoken, man who probably worked at or owned the garage for more than
50 years. I got the feeling that 100 years ago, this place was a
horse carriage repair shop owned by Dillard senior's great-grandad, and
Dillard's granddad was his employee. But, they seemed like pleasant
folks who didn't mind their lot, and genuinely liked to meet and help strangers.
After senior had a short conference with junior, they agreed to charge
me fifty dollars for the tire and labor. I thought this was a very
reasonable price, considering it would have cost that much to wake up the
tire guy at the truck stop. I paid in cash, and got directions out
of the middle of nowhere (I asked them to repeat the directions a couple
of times).
I had no problem getting
out of the woods, or with the new tire, and made it to the Texaco station
at about 2:15 in the morning. I was very relieved to see Steve and
Jay waiting for me in the parking lot. We were all very tired, and
said few words before I followed them back to the campgrounds.
They stopped on a curve
on Campsite Road nearly exactly where I had parked twice before (map
insert 4). I locked the car and hopped
in Jay's truck for the short trip to the campsite (map
& map insert X). There must have
been an implied curfew for all campers as no one stirred in the campgrounds.
Only two hours prior, it was a veritable madhouse that resembled a mix
between Mardi Gras, Woodstock, and a ... well, a NASCAR race.
We spoke briefly about
Steve's attempts to find me and my attempts to find him, but reached no
conclusion on how this all happened. We settled in the tent and despite
the hard floor and the chilly night, I slept reasonably well, though all
too short.
Blue Skies in Turn 3
We woke at about 8 o'clock
to a chilly, yet quickly warming morning. I looked around the campsite,
and sadly realized that last night wasn't just a bad dream. Someone
in the group had already made a trip to McDonald's (map
M) and brought back breakfast and coffee,
and my outlook was improving. We busied ourselves eating breakfast,
catching up, reading the paper, and breaking down the campsite. Half
of the group, like me, was leaving after the race... the other half was
staying another night. I considered calling in to Tallahassee and
taking Monday off, but I resisted the urge ... despite the lure of the
camping trip I never got.
We left for the race track
at noon. Steve and I stopped at my car to drop off my things, and
to make sure that my new tire still had air. I was parked in an advantageous
spot, so that if I didn't dally after the race, I might be able to beat
the traffic. The forever imbedded memory of yesterday's traffic jam,
and the necessity to get out quickly after the race caused some anxiety
that morning, but it was undue as I found out later. We met back
up with the group, and walked the few hundred yards to the track.
I used the ATM machine
at the track, and paid Jay for the ticket. Without any regard for
yesterday's strife, I settled in to enjoy my first ever race. The
grandstands were packed by more people than I had ever seen at one place
in my life (approx. 200,000). The day turned out to be beautiful,
though warm (mid 80's). The cars seemed larger than life, and the
speed was incomprehensible unless you are actually there. I found
myself cheering for Bill Elliott as I had drawn his name in a pool that
we arranged before the race. Most of the group I was with, and about
95% of the crowd were rabid Dale Earnhardt fans. Every 30 seconds
or so of the race, someone would shout "Earnhardt!", and the surrounding
fans would respond, "Wooo!", or "Hell, yeah!"
I got into it a little
bit, and found myself cheering for him as he raced near the front of the
pack for most of the day. He finished in third, however, as the hated
Jeff Gordon won the race. I got the feeling that most of the fans
considered themselves to have had a worse day than me because Gordon had
beaten Earnhardt. I didn't mind though. Gordon is a good spokesman
for the sport, and he seems to race cleanly. But, mainly I was just
happy to be there. I got to see a great race, complete with a 16
car accident near the end. My driver, Elliott, wound up in 15th place
despite running in the top 5 near the end of the race.
The race ended at about
4:30, and as Gordon crossed the finish line, I was already scaling the
steps towards the exit. I shook hands with the group, and made a
full sprint to my car. I reached my car ahead of the majority, and
was able to move rapidly down Campsite Road to Campground Road out to Speedway
Blvd, and finally to 77 south to begin my long ride home. I looked
at my watch as I easily cruised ahead of the traffic out of town.
It was 5:00 ... exactly 24 hours after I pulled into town. The trip
home was uneventful, but (of course), couldn't go off completely without
a hitch. I realized as sweat poured off my sunburned face (I hadn't
run more than 10 yards in years) that the air conditioning in the car was
on the fritz.
Turn 4 ... The Finish Line
I arrived safely in Tallahassee
at 10:30, and related my "Griswald" story to my in-laws, Tom and Pat.
I told the same story to Kim and my sister when I picked her up from work,
and realized that my ordeal had to be written down. I left too much
out to relate it verbally.
I learned many lessons
in my 24 hours in Talladega ... some that I should have already known,
and some that I will undoubtedly have to learn again. I learned that
AAA, a spare tire, and a jack can be invaluable. I learned that if
you're going somewhere that you've never been before ... get good directions,
and make sure you understand them. I learned to make a useful contingency
plan (such as an easy to reach meeting place in my case). I learned
that there really are good people in the world ... even in the backwoods
of Talladega (actually Lincoln) Alabama. I learned that a firewood
salesman, a tow truck driver, and a mechanic can be lifesavers. I
learned that you should always carry a phone card ... and don't lose it.
I learned to have enough cash on hand to pay for emergency services.
I learned to bring a change of clothes with you in case you get motor oil
splashed on what you're wearing. I learned to not rely on cellular
phones for communication .... but if you have one after a flat tire, it
could certainly be useful. I learned that sometimes, no matter how
hard you try to think it out, every decision you make will be the wrong
one.
You may ask that considering
what happened, would I ever go to another NASCAR event for the rest of
my life. The answer is "of course". The people
there escaped their humble daily lives as mechanics, waitresses, and stockbrokers
to enjoy a thrilling weekend of camping, hell-raising, and a major race.
That's the reason I went. Life is too short to let any possible ill
consequences deter a person or family from living their lives to the fullest.
I am not, however, recommending that you take your family to a NASCAR race.
Well ... maybe take them to the race, but the campgrounds were downright
crazy. I could write another story of this length about what I saw
on my two mile hike back and forth along Campsite Road.